The kit includes 25 gel-filled UR Red, 3-wire butt splice connectors. The all-in-one tool can cut, strip, and crimp all types of jellybean UR/UY/UB IDC contact butt and tap connectors. That is good to know.The Telephone/Data Cable Splice and Repair Kit includes the Kinetic™ Super IDC specialty tool and red connectors needed for common telephone splice/tap applications as well as for repairing damaged data or voice conductors. I read that these dual-purpose AGM batteries are drop-in replacements for flooded starter batteries and work with all modern alternators, but I’ll double-check. My load is small the battery is meant to be more of a fallback that I’ll use carefully. I’m looking at battery monitors to protect against overcharging from the solar, and will have some sort of low voltage monitor and / or cutoff. I’ll have 15A fuses on both the connection from the solar charge controller and the battery, and on my load connections from the controller. It comes up as a “fit” for my vehicle in the product finder on various sites. Thanks you haven’t already done so check it for fit, both size and terminal style. Make sure nothing about your set up can interrupt the connection between battery and alternator while the car is running, the battery must remain connected when the engine is running to snub high voltage spikes originating from the alternator, to protect electronics, control modules, etc. Disconnect the ground first, reconnect it last (so when you’re wrenching the positive terminal or any lead and the tool touches ground your life doesn’t get too interesting). Remove metal jewelry and wear eye protection when working around batteries. If you’re going to be drawing on the battery with the car not running you’ll probably want an auto cut-off set for ~ 25% charge (so you can restart).
#Battery cable repair splice kit install
This one may be fine and at worst would need to adjust your voltage regulator or install a different one. If you haven’t already done so check it for fit, both size and terminal style.Ĭheck its chemistry and charging voltage requirements, all are some flavor of lead-acid but can vary a bit in maximum charging voltage spec. It sounds like you may have found a battery of the same configuration, will assume the cable issue is moot for now. The positive cable looks pretty straightforward and easy to replace with a longer read soldered connections are more brittle in this type of environment b/c they’re rigid and can’t flex with vibrations. I think the main issue is the negative cable. The current battery requires replacing b/c 1) it’s worn out, and 2) it’s a standard starting battery that won’t work for my me, the negative battery cable looks like it’s more of a harness that goes to the back of the engine compartment with several leads going to different places in the engine compartment.ĭo you think a longer version of that cable can be manufactured easily? Or is it more a matter of adding an extension to a stock cable? The biggest problem is that it has terminals on the wrong side. The battery I like (which has the terminals on the wrong side) is a dual-purpose battery recommended for trolling / starting applications and has a large RC.
I have not found a dual-purpose battery with a decent reserve capacity that is the correct size and has the correct terminals (24R/F). So, I’m looking at dual-purpose batteries.
0 kommentar(er)
